Diocletian was a bit crazy. Among other things, the Roman emperor believed he was Jupiter and enjoyed killing people that thought otherwise. But in spite of his flaws, he managed to build a pretty impressive retirement home in Croatia. Diocletian’s Palace in Split is one of the best-preserved Roman palaces in the world, and the only one that still functions as a living city. And that’s why I can’t wait to spend 24 hours in Split.
The tourism board has set me up with a private tour of Split led by Vjeran Mlačić, a guide that that brings the city to life with his knowledge and passion. We start where any tour of Split should start: in front of the palace. Diocletian’s Palace is unique not only in that it’s still standing, but also in that people have taken over the old rooms and squares, turning it into a modern city within ancient walls.
Homes, shops, restaurants, and cafes all function within the thick stone perimeter, and the phenomenon of walking out of a store and coming face-to-face with an ancient vestibule or imperial mausoleum is both unique and awe-inspiring.
Throughout the tour, we visit everything from the palace basement to the ancient Temple of Jupiter. The former used to house olive oil presses, but is now better known as a filming location for Game of Thrones.
The latter was converted into a baptistery after Diocletian’s death, and is now home to a baptismal font with a beautiful 11th century marble relief. It’s the oldest in Europe depicting a king.
We also see Diocletian’s mausoleum, which was converted into a cathedral after the emperor passed—the Christians he persecuted certainly got their revenge! The church has impressive Roman design, with massive columns leading my eyes up to the domed ceiling. The history here is amazing, and reminds me of Damascus, where I saw temples that had become churches and then mosques over the centuries.
And speaking of religious sites, we visit the synagogue in Split. Formerly two houses belonging to Carmelite nuns, the synagogue dates back to the early 16th century and is decorated in 18th century style. A meeting place for the city’s 100-strong Jewish community, it’s now known for being the third oldest active synagogue in Europe.
And speaking of the third oldest things in Europe, down the street is the third oldest bookstore in Europe. Dating back to 1860, there’s still a shop on the site selling books today. If I didn’t have just 24 hours in Split, I would spend all day exploring what’s inside.
The arts are strong in Split, too. In Diocletian’s round vestibule, Klapa singers perform emotional a cappella songs for passers-by, taking advantage of the domed room’s great acoustics. Their music is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site status of the palace, and they perform daily to keep the tradition alive.
Artisans in the city do the same with the plastic arts. The Čivljak family has run the tiny Zlatar Filigran shop on Bosanska for generations. They make filigree jewelry and cufflinks by hand, and are one of the few traditional artisan shops left in the city center. The proprietor gives me a warm welcome as Vjeran offers a crash course in how filigree is done.
Other artistic treasures in Split include the statues of several of the city’s heroes. The most famous of these is the statue of Grgur Ninski, a famous 10th century religious leader in Croatia. Celebrated Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović—who was the first person to have a solo show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York—created the iconic statue of him that sits outside the palace’s Golden Gate. Legend has it that if you rub the big toe, you will have good luck.
And right now I’m lucky to be right down the street from the city’s open-air Green Market. I wander through the stalls, taking in everything from bright orange persimmons to fat green grapes. Colorful bouquets of flowers line the perimeter, dotting the market with brilliant colors.
And after exploring the goods, I’m ready for a break from the bustle of the city.
Split has beaches within easy reach of Diocletian’s Palace and the cafes along the Riva waterfront, and I spend the afternoon walking along the rocky white shores past rows of yachts that sit like floating white whales in Podstrana’s marina.
It’s a lovely way to end my 24 hours in Split, not least because there’s more to the city than just Diocletian’s Palace. Then again, I wouldn’t mind seeing what else the megalomaniacal emperor could come up with. If he was crazy enough to build temples to himself, he might have had some great ideas for beach bars.
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